Sketching in Lisbon

Sketching by the River Tagus, Lisbon.

First, I must apologize for the break in blog posts. No excuses, and there have been many occasions when I think there are drawings, paintings or art events that I would like to share with you. I can only resolve to do better...

The most recent exciting excursion was a mini break with my husband to Lisbon in Portugal. Just a two-and-a-half hour flight and we find ourselves walking around a fascinating city with a vibrant mix of culture and history, wealth and poverty, all jostling side by side.

Mosaic style paving along the Avenida da Liberdade,
typical of much of the paving patterns in black and white around the city.

Our hotel was situated in a quiet side street just off the Avenida da Liberdade, a wide avenue that leads straight down into the heart of the city. After dropping the bags off at the hotel for safe-keeping (until later in the day when we could officially check in), we sat in the shade along here sipping coffee from a kiosk-style cafe as we orientated ourselves and settled into this new environment. As we got up to leave I recall mentioning to Paul "I must sketch this next time we sit here..." as I loved the dark shade under the trees contrasting with the bright sunlight. Silly me, should have done it there and then. We didn't actually pause there again and the opportunity / inspiration was missed!  

 

Sketch in pen with pencil shading to pull trees forward and 'frame' the building. 

We managed to pack in plenty of sightseeing, and purchased a 2-day ticket for the regular hop on - hop off tour buses with commentary offering insights to the area and buildings / events of note. A trip along the coast, up narrow twisting streets to the castle, around the key areas of the city and yet another, to the newest commercial part at night with some very contemporary architecture dramatically lit. Many of these areas were revisited on foot to investigate at a more leisurely pace. 

Sketch and notes from the Jardim Botanico.

The guidebook describes the Jardim Botanico as having 'a distinct air of neglect' but I wanted to visit anyway, and after a bit of a hunt to find the official entrance, we were pleasantly surprised. The complex comprises of two museums (Natural History and the Science museum housed within one large mansion) and ten acres of gardens. The ticket operative informed us that only last year it was finally recognised as a sight of special interest by Europe which meant that this year the government has released money to be spent on reforming it all to its glory. Already it was evident that much work had been done. I took a host of photos based on the effects of light and shade on the exotic trees, and when we rested on benches, I managed a few sketches.

Dark shade beneath the palms captured quickly in pencil.

All too soon our trip was at an end. There were still museums and places we would have liked to visit but choices have to be made, and we can recommend the Praca do Comercio, a visit to The Lisboa Story museum, the trams, the tour buses, the Castelo de Sao Jorge, the Monument to the Discoveries, and the old Carmelite church in Chiado with the graceful skeletal arches standing as a reminder of the 1755 devastating earthquake. Should we find ourselves back in Lisbon at any time a visit to explore the Gulbenkian Collection would be high on my list, plus some of the other fine houses and collections further afield. 

Imagine our surprise when we arrived at the airport, in the evening, to find that our flight home was cancelled due to a strike by pilots and aircrew! After some time staff managed to secure us seats for a flight the following day. To our delight we were booked into another four star hotel overnight, in the posh commercial area, all paid for by the airline and with a three-course meal and breakfast too. This proved to be a contemporary 'boutique' style hotel and contrasted with our previous one, also delightful, but old style traditional with heraldry and a calm air of gentile living and attention to the finer things in life.

    

Colourful tile montage of superheroes outside the hotel
for our unexpected extra night in the commercial quarter of Lisbon.

After a lovely meal, good sleep and hearty breakfast we had a few hours to fill before we needed to head back to the airport. A short stroll and we found ourselves along the riverside. It was bright and breezy and Paul had hoped the cable cars would be in operation. However I was a little relieved that they open later in the day as my head for heights isn't always good, and resolved to use the time for a sketch instead.

Cable cars along the promenade by the River Tagus. 

My view along the promenade working directly with pen,
perspective might be a bit dodgy but pleased I included
cable cars and some joggers.

A short break like this can be very inspiring and invigorating - highly recommended! Paul is already planning a short trip for next October, maybe Naples, and I am already planning to be much more productive next time in my sketchbook...which means plenty of practice between now and then.

If you are thinking of a trip, consider tucking a small sketchbook of quality cartridge paper, with a few pens, pencils into your handbag; maybe a waterbrush and petite watercolour pan set too?

Sketching equipment for Lisbon... Daler-Rowney hardback sketchbook (13.5 x 15cm),
small leather makeup bag used as pencil case, Edding black pen 07,
Pental 0.9mm clutch pencil (spare leads in pencil case), waterbrush
and Winsor & Newton watercolour pan set.
These all fit neatly in the front pocket of this handbag so I'm ready for action!